A South American twist from the chef of Grand Cafe Indie | Keltrop-Mierlo
‘Hindi’ means energy and vitality. A major source of strength for the chef is the Grand Café Indie at Heuvel in Keltrop. Modern cuisines have their origins in South America and southern Europe.
In the past, various catering companies have passed reviews in the old ‘Factory House’, a former woolen factory in Howell, Keltrop. Since last year, Gino Stadia, who grew up in Curacao, has been breathing the South American atmosphere through the historic and monumental building in Huelva. A promising CV and training at Treeswijkoeve, Zarzo and Maurick is no small feat, but Patty’s recipe also inspires this young, enthusiastic chef. He synthesizes this knowledge into his own style with international influences from South America and Southern Europe.
The name Grand Cafe Indi refers to the important sun god of the Incas and represents energy and vitality. An important source of power for the cook. We are ready for that. We settle into a bed together with Gino.
The design exudes ample energy with a South American look. Jeanne van de Meulengraaf, a versatile designer, has taken a creative approach to interiors.
Color is everywhere
The restaurant has two areas, upon entering there is a bar with stools for a drink and snack. To the left are dining tables and chairs, long sofas stuffed with cushions line the walls. Tall windows with shafts and golden curtains offer a view of the square. Color is everywhere in the wallpaper with different patterns from terracotta to soft green. There is an oriental style carpet on the beautiful wooden floor. Behind the plastic dark tables are all sorts of weird, comfy chairs.
The mainly young service sprints between tables occupied with menus, drinks and plates. We secretly wonder how things will go when schools start back up. Those happy young people will surely be missed here.
With a delicious sandwich and aioli and sauvignon blanc, a floral and fine glass of Landskruen, 2022, we look at the menu with many modern dishes with South American and Southern European influences. My table mate ordered the vegetarian dish and was satisfied after the first bite. In a ring, cubes of celeriac and celery are briefly cooked in smoked oil and seasoned with rosemary and thyme. Add some chopped hazelnuts and top with fresh goat cheese and pickled radish for seasoning.
For me, a ceviche-like preparation involves seabream fillets cut into small pieces, marinated in lemon juice and Chardonnay vinegar with passion fruit and pepper oil. The pickle was made with radish and arugula. A nice nuance of tartness and umami flavors.
When you think of South American cuisine, you often think of hearty meat. Of course that’s also on the menu here. The table partner is happy with the flat iron steak. Cook sous vide and place on grill before serving. A layer of chimichurri (herb-based Argentinian sauce) is spread over the meat and served on a bed of lentils with a garlic sauce. Against that is a vegetable garnish of fennel, corn and carrots.
I’m a little excited about my steak covered in a thin layer of bittersweet stoba. Stopa is an Antillean stew dish well known in Curacao, made with vegetables, herbs and soy sauce. The quick, somewhat bitter taste experience of the small snack is very small. The meat, a thick diamond tenderloin, would have been better sliced. As with fries with mayonnaise, a vegetable garnish of roasted sharp cabbage, fennel, carrots and green roasted peppers is good.
Meanwhile, on the other hand, we taste a glass of Swartland 2021, a red pinotage with a strong character and slightly bitter taste.
From the modest dessert menu we choose Cookie BBQ by Inti; In a very warm baking dish, the bottom is covered with a layer of chocolate brownie, topped with dulce de leche (caramel spread), chocolate mousse, chocolate and nut cake, blueberry compote and salted caramel ice cream. Incredibly powerful but a treat for chocoholics. On the other hand comes Dama Blanca, simply Dame Blanche. A large bowl contains three scoops of vanilla ice cream, small pieces of chocolate brownie, whipped cream and a separate hot chocolate sauce. The last hole is now filled.
Verdict: Indy is a lovely restaurant. The chef gives an international twist to his dishes. The service is mainly led by a young and experienced hostess.
Grand Cafe IndHeuvel 7, 5664HK Geldrop 0403685232
Opening Hours: Closed Monday and Tuesday. Other days from 12 noon.
1x celeriac € 10.50
1x steak n stoba € 23,00
1x flat iron steak € 26,00
1x Dame Blanche Inti € 8,50
2x glass of white wine € 10.10
1x glass of red wine €6.00
A flat iron steak is beef tenderloin. A long muscle in the middle of the shoulder. The meat has a layer of fat and thick tendons in the middle.
Starters from €10.50 – €13.50. Main courses range from €15.75 – €33.50. Desserts range from €1.75 – €12.00. 3 course surprise menu €37.50. Chef’s tasting, 4 small dishes € 16.00.
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